Ilha Grande

So after Charles left we decided to head for the last bit of beach before I'd fly out. We picked Ilha Grande, an island off the mainland with more than 100 secluded beaches on it- most only reachable by boat or hiking trail.

So we got on the insanely expensive bus to the town of Angra dos Reis, where we searched for a hidden ferry in the pouring rain. We finally found it with the help of a hot dog salesman, and with Philip and Susanna- two people we'd met on the bus- we set off for the island.

I hate rain when I'm travelling. With rain, you're screwed. Especially at the beach. We wanted to camp, but decided to go for a hostel seeing the flooded campsite next door. The next morning it was still raining a bit, but we went on a walk through the rainforest to a black sand beach, where I became black for old time sake, then we swam in a questionable smelling river, passed the old prisons and aqueduct, and ended up swimming some more in a stream-waterfall-rock pool thing.

That afternoon the retraced our steps with the two others in search of a waterfall that we never reached. But we didn't care, cuz we saw cool looking bamboo on the way. Back in town we ate amazing street cake and I can't remember what else we did that day.



The next day, and our last on the island, was, luckily, all sun. We went to the best beach on the island- and some say the most beautiful in Brazil- on foot, hiking through the thick forest and passing by 3 great beaches on the way. Our destination- Lopes Mendes beach was breathtaking- it was probly what Rio was like before the people arrived. It was almost the perfect beach. First of all, the sand squeaked. Already that gives it, like, 3,000 points.

Then the beach ran for at least a few kilometers, and was nice and thick too. It had big waves, but far enough so that you can ride them and they don't kill you. It has a beautiful backdrop of pristine Atlantic forest with hills jutting out of the water. It has no, I repeat, No human settlement. Not even a restaurant. It has hardly any tourists... it was great. The whole island is really well managed, with a good trail system and planned perfectly for sustainable tourism. We played in the waves, made sandcastles, relaxed on the sand, and I took a walk discovering an old blue and white Jesuit church and brightly colored jellyfish washed onto the shore.

We rushed back at 5:30 cuz it was a 3 hour hike back to our village and it was getting dark soon, but we made it with enough time to spare, stopping by at a little beach on the way to take a dip.

Riooooooooooooooooooo

We have arrived. Theres just something about this city... we don´t quite believe that we´ve made it this far. It seems to unrealistic that we´re in the Rio de Janeiro laying on Ipanema beach watching the sun set behind its curved hills while listening to the musical Portuguese of thousands of scantly-clad beachgoers.

But we are and we´re here and to me its the perfect ending to the perfect trip. Arriving at 10pm on Friday night we made our way to Leblon (fancy part of town next to the beach!) ready to do some couchsurfing. Well, apparently the guy had misunderstood us that thought there were 2 of us instead of 5. Yea... so he was really nice and let us sleep on his floor for that night anyways, and the next day we found ourselves a perfectly placed hostel in Lapa, the alternative center of Rio.


So now we´re living right in front of a huge white aqueduct with live music and dancing to the right and the left of our hostel. When we´re hungry we step outside and literally walk 2 meters and get ourselves some great street food (Grilled meat sticks or huge hot dogs with corn, raisins, eggs, chips and beans on top) or just cross the street for some caipirinhas that we can drink on our terrace overlooking the nightlife. So thats pretty much what we´ve been doing in the evenings here...

On our first day we went to the Pao de Acucar (Sugar Loaf Mountain) for some spectacular views of Rio and its beaches. Its probably the weirdest placed city I´ve seen, I mean its a pretty stupid place to make a huge city cuz its dotted with steep hills jutting out of the ground and surrounded by curving bays everywhere, so the city is left hugging the contours of water and its hills. But this combination of unspoiled rainforest hills, deep blue water and a mass of buildings scattered throughout the area makes it a really amazing city.


The language is impossible to understand but we don´t care cuz its so nice to hear. Its also a bit weird to see people in black suits walking down the street next to others in tiny bikinis, plus, I don´t think I´ve ever seen such a diversity of people all in the same place. Its like if someone picked up the world and shook it and someone from every country landed in Brazil.

So after admiring the view until sunset we went out partying next door, and the next day we decided to relax on Ipanema beach. Being Sunday the beach was so crowded that you just saw a neverending patchwork of umbrellas and people until the sea spray impeded you from seeing any further. That night a street performer that we had met in Buenos Aires spotted us and invited us to a party of other street performer and circus people friends. So we walked up a huge hill and down a maze of pathways reminding me a bit of Hanoi to find this cool party full of people from all over the world.


The day after we visited the Morro Santa Teresa, died of heat and walked to the Christ statue overlooking the city. The views weren´t as nice as from the other hill but it was a nice walk through the rainforest. After that we went to the Uruguaiana market which was teeming with people, but lacked anything interesting to buy (Except for sugar cane juice!!). And again we hung around our area at night, watching some live music and talking to street sellers until late...

Today is Charles´ last day so we´re on our way to Copacabana beach before his plane leaves tonight.

Foz do Iguazu

I am now in Rio and can´t believe it... but first things first. Iguazu. Instead of hating long distance bus rides we´re now in love with them, so we were more than happy to book ourselves on another 21-hour trip towards Iguazu.

Already from the bus you could see a huge change in the landscape as everything for the last 8 hours was rainforest-green, which looked even more dramatic contrasted by the bright red soil everywhere. Iguazu was our first tropical destination since the jungles of Ecuador in September, so we welcomed the heat for about 30 seconds before waterfalls rivaling those of Iguazu started pouring out from our bodies. Oh well... I guess its better than frostbite.


So we found a great laid back hostel with a swimming pool and jumped right in after arriving, making pasta for dinner and relaxing outside in the evening. The next morning we woke up at 6:30 am to arrive at the waterfalls by 9:30 and start our tour.

These things are amazing. Already just arriving to them is impressive because you have to cross the 1km wide river on metal catwalks, and then all of a sudden this calm river falls down into nothingness as if the ground under it had just dissapeared. We couldn't even see the bottom because of all the mist. After seeing the biggest drops we continued on another tour of more falls the rest of the day, with the combination of pouring rain and waterfall mist drenching us completely. Well at least we weren´t sweating.


After oohing and aahing at more waterfalls and stomping around in the red mud we made it back home to our comforting pool and a night of caipirinhas. The next day we exited Argentina for the last time and made our way to Brazil, and, 25 hours later, we got off at the drab bus terminal of Rio de Janeiro.

Cordoba

Couchsurfing is da bomb. Its a website where people all over the world register to share their couch, bed or floor with travellers. We've just started using it in Buenos Aires, and its really given us another perspective to our travels. We felt so at home at these complete strangers' places and its let us do a lot of things (and save lots and lost of money) that we wouldnt otherwise have been able to do. Its amazing too how these people just decide to take strangers into their houses and lives without any apprehension... it kind of gives you hope for humanity.

Now we're staying in Cordoba, Argentina's 2nd largest city and once again we've had the best luck with couchsurfing, being hosted by Sofia, a 20 year old graphic design student in her amazing house with a Mediterranean garden and swimming pool!! We had a huge BBQ with all her family just after arriving and spent the afternoon laying by the pool and playing with her newborn puppies (the 4 fattest puppies in the universe).

She took us out to one of her friends' Bday parties that night and we danced until morning, then we got up at 2 that day and had a repeat of the previous one, laying by the pool, drinking mate and exchanging massages.

Life just shouldnt be this good. We've decided that it just can't get any better than this, so the only solution is to die. Yes, its drastic, but we see no other choice. And since the next 60 years are all gonna be downhill anyways...we might as well spare ourselves the wrinkles.

I've finally uploaded all my photos from Argentina, including our huge hike, the glaciers, Bariloche and bus rides. Click here to see them.