Onwards to Costa Rica

We hesitated between taking the 4am and the 5:45 am bus to leave the island, finally deciding on the more earthly hour of 5:45. So our alarms rang at 5:05 and we rolled out of our bunks, gathering up all the (still wet) laundry we had set out to dry the day before. It really isnt the smartest thing to expect your clothes to dry in a place with 110% humidity.

So we took the early bus to Altagracia where the Moyogalpa bus took us to the pier of the ferry that would take us to San Jorge which would connect to the minibus taking us to the Rivas bus station where we boarded our bus to the insanely malorganized border where we took another bus to the town of Liberia, finally in Costa Rica. Its like they don't want you to find the immigration office at the border. They try to hide it in the most unlikely places, and the victors, those who can actually find it and don't succum to the heat or the bloodsucking mosquitoes win the grand prize of having to pay a $3 exit fee and walking 500 more meters to repeat the same serach on the Costa Rican side of the compound.

In Liberia we hastily finalized our plans for the Cota Rica part of our trip and spent 3 hrs waitng at the bus stop for a bus to the national park that didnt come. We finally abandoned the idea of sleeping there tonight, and instead made our way into town and took a hotel for the night. Happy to finally have crossed, we went to buy tomorrow's lunch in a nearby supermarket- peanut butter & Jelly sandwiches and rosé wine. Mmmm.

Ometepe - D Day

You go to Opetepe for one reason and one reason only. The Nature. You can do hikes, climbs, bike rides, kayaking, swimmig, horseback riding, etc. Today we planned to pack all the possible activities we could into one day.

We woke up to the breakfast bell at 7:30, enjoying our little breakfast buffet with the rest of the travellers before setting out on item 1. The biking. We rented our relatively good bikes next door and set out in the pouring rain (It appears that sun doesnt exist on this island). It was wonderful. Its been so long since I've biked in the rain, much less on muddy unpaved roads through thick jungle and banana plantations surrounded by two majestic volcanoes.

We biked through mud and, less fun, cow shit- some of which I managed to hit straight on, sending most of it spraying in the air around me, until we reached the Sto Domingo beach. This beach is a 2 km long continuous stretch of black volcanic sand, forming the isthmus connecting the two volcanoes. We stopped there for a bit and watched a wild horse poke around for food, and then continued, biking on the water's edge, watching the morning birds forage for dead fish and the villagers take their baths on the shore.

We continued farther down the road until the sun reached us, and we reached our destination and activity number 2. The Ojo de Agua, or eye of water, this is a very blue natural pool turned into a bathig spot, surrounded by hammocks and rainforest trees. We jumped right off our bikes and into the refreshing water, washing away all our sweat. We then found a tarzan rope in the smaller pool and took turns swinging into the water, trying to do backflips before the rope would swing back and smash us into the tree. After letting the sun's rays dry us we got back on the bikes and made our mostly downhill return, stopping for a hamburger and beer lunch on the beach.

We then quickly washed our dirty laundry (see, vacations aren't all just fun and games) and decided to undertake the third and final activity, kayaking. In the rain, of course. We got into yellow our plastic banana of a kayak and set off, against the waves and driving wind to the small offshore Monkey Island. We circled it, and then another, seeing both spider and cappuccino monkeys, with the rain pattering in the water around us, and the ominous black sky above.

This is the only lake in the world that has freshwater sharks in it, but sadly none of them came to feast on Charles, although we half-expected that since they've almost been fished to extinction. The lake water was warm by comparison, so we decided to go for a swim off our kayak before returning to the pier. The rain then stopped and the wind as well, leaving the whole lake eerily quiet, and making us feel like we were paddling through the amazon.

On the way back Charles had the urge to crash into every rock we saw jetting out of the lake, though luckily I was there to counter-paddle (he was victorious with our dock though, running us headfirst into the cement pillar). We then showerd (again) and settled down on the hammocks for some light reading and dying of hunger while awaiting the dinner bell.

Ometepe - The Arrival

It took us an insanely long amount of time to arrive to our destination, the island of Opeteme, which is a relatively small volcanic island smack in the middle of the Lago de Nicaragua. This island was formed by two volcanoes, Maderas and Conception, the latter of which is the perfect conical shape (and still active today).

We were gonna take the 9:30am bus (assuming it existed) from Granada only to find out that it didn't, in fact, exist. And that the next one would be at 11am. Ah. So we sat in the sweltering bus for 1.5 hrs, watching the locals suck on their plastic bags of refrescos and then throw them out of the unmoving window, turning the bus stop into a sticky matte of white plastc bags and bottles.

At 11 we finally began our bus ride to Rivas, from which we taxied to San Jorge where we caught the 1.5 hr ferry to Moyogalpa in Opemete where, drenched in a downpour we ran into the chicken bus that would finally take us 2 hours to our final destination, the old dictator's ranch-turned-hostle in Merida.

The hostle was especially run down (or rustic, whichever word you prefer) and had clearly seen better days, but it was still a cozy vacation spot, with a nice open area with hammocks and plenty of tables. We went into Merida town (literally all 3 buildings of it) for our lunch and layed around the rest of the day, venturing out on the rickety pier to have a look at the lake.

The Big Bully

Thanks to our Lonel Planet guidebook I was able to read up a bit about the history of the countries we've visited over the past month, and there's been one name that keeps appearing in each nation's profile, and thats the US of A. Its incredible how much America hs messed with Central American politics. I could write pages and pages, but just to give you a quick idea.

Guatemala:
In 1951 the country's newly elected president wanted to redistribute the estate land into smaller farms, but the US fruit company United Fruit pressured the US govt to orchestrate an invasion from Honduras, overthrowing the president and reinstating one of their choosing. In the next 30 years of US funding 60,000 people were killed, 400 villages were exterminated, and corruption and oppresion were rampant.

El Salvador:
In 1985 the scare of socialism in neighboring Nicaragua led the US to pump 500 Million dollars into to their Govt. prolonguing the alreaddy bloody civil war, with the US trained military decimating countles villages.

Honduras:
by 1918, 75% of all Honduran banana lands were held by 3 major US companies. With each company backing their chosen political party, the Honduran Govt and its policies were basically controlled by banana company interests, hence gaining the title 'Banana Republic'. The US govt sent in marines to protect their interests and in 1954 the two Govts signed a pact, giving the US unlimited access to raw materials of the country should the need arise. In 1963 the persident was forced to resign after a scandal involving his acceptance of bribes from US fruit ccompanies.

In the 1980s the US set up a puppet Govt allowing the buildup of US troops in the country (once again due to the scare of socialism from Nicaragua.) It also covertly trained rebel Salvadorian Soldiers in refugee camps in Honduras to fight aagainst Nicaragua.

Belize:
Nobody wants it anyways.

Nicaragua:
The worst for last. Between 1912 ad 1932 the US dominaded Nicaraguan politics, installing presidents it favored and ousting those it didnt, using its marines as leverage. Supported by the USA the dictator Somoza rose to power and what followed was a 4 decade rule of family dynasty where he amassed a huge personal wealth, leaving the rest of the country in poverty. Roosovet reportedly said this about him: ''He may be a son of a bitch, but at least he's our son of a bitch''.

In the 1980s, with a rising Guerilla movement the US changed sides and funded the Guerillas to oust the Somoza dictatorship. In the late 1980s the US realized that these guerillas were socialists and they set up an army to fight them, called the Contras. In 1985 the US congress rejected military aid to the Contras, but the Reagan Admin secretly continued to fund them through a scheme where the CIA illegaly sold weapons to our friends in Iran at inflated prices, using the money left to fund the Contras. The US has been interfering in their politics ever since, with as recently as 2001 funding the succesful presidential campaign of Enrique Bolanos.

And I haven't even gotten to Panama yet...

Granada, Nicaragua

Granada is the oldest colonial town in Nicaragua, with itself and Leon vying for power for much of their history. Its a sleepy little town on the banks of the enormous Lago de Nicaragua. We spent much of the first afternoon walking around, admiring the old churches and terracotta tiled houses. We were taking photos of an old car where some women invited us in to take a photo of a 105 old lady (born in the infamous year of 1903!) so we joined them in their lanai and discussed Granada's past before continuing on our way.

We had a very Italian pizza con jamon in candle-light as they have daily power outages for 5 hours because they are upgrading the country's power grid. We then walked around a bit in the dark and resigned ourselves to our beds.

The next day we got up late, had a great breakfast of banana pancackes at the churchside cafe and instead of making our way to the Isla the Ometepe, as planned, we decided to stay an extra day to see the running of the bulls and some concerts for their town festival.

Well, the running of the bulls was straight out of a dingy movie scene. We arrived in the almost deserted waterfront at about 5pm and we see this small encolsed arena made of corrugated tin and wire mesh, with some wooden planks holding it up. As we get closer the area becomes packed with sweaty men covered in mud, standing around. We then entered the compound at the lower level, and stood under pilotiers supporting the upper spectator section, on eye level with the arena, with the only thing separating us from the bulls was a wire fence and waste-high wooden planks.

Its actually a rodeo mixed with the running of the bulls. It begins with them letting loose a bull with a rider on it, and as soon as the bull knocks him off its a free for all, with the audience members in our section (mostly drunk young men) slipping under the planks and into the muddy arena, antagonizing the bull with rags or red shirts and then running from it at full speed when the adrenaline kicks in. We watched 3 of these cycles, of the bull being released, the rider getting knocked off, and the following 10 or 15 min of free-for-all (where one drunk guy got gored pretty bad). Charles has a good video of one, I'll try to put it up later if I've got time.



Walking back to town we saw one of the most coloful sunsets I've ever seen, filling the whole sky with a bright orange-pink color. The same night they held the 2nd annual young musician's festival in Grananda, so we went to see that a bit, though it was dissapointing cuz it was just an old folk singer with 3 million songs about his love of Nica. We decided to return later for better music, but when we returned at 11:30 pm they were already taking apart the stage and folding up the lighting, and the cultural center of nicaragua was dead silent.

Endless Travelling

We woke up the next day and couldn't move our legs. We very slowly made our way towards the dock when we foud out that there was a bus leavng at 9 am to Guatemala cty, exaclty where we wanted to go, so we doubled back and walked up the hill to the bus stop. Our 9 am bus left at 10 and we were bumpily on our way to the capital.

For the next 3 days we travlelled nonstop, mostly on the old US school buses that dominate Central American public transport. We've been so unbelievably lucky with the buses, all of them leaving witin 5 min of us arriving (except for the 1st one). So we got our connection at Guatemala City for Chiquimula, a town close to the border, where we spent the night. Early the next day we took the bus to the border and crossed into Honduras where we were on our way to our last Mayan ruins of Copan.

Arriving in Copan Ruinas at 12 we ate burritos that were bigger than our arms and then walked to the Archaeologcal site. Well, about halfway there it started raining hard, so we ran back to get our rain gear and visited the ruins during the downpour. The good thing is that we had it all to ourselves and it was very mysterious seing it in the rain. Its a lot smaller than other sites but is enveloped by rainforest just like Palenque. After exploring the site for 2 hours (and 15 USD!!) we took the chicken bus to La Entrada where we changed for the supposedly nice colonial town of Gracias, where we spent the night. Well, that wasn't the best idea cuz it turned out that there were no buses to Teguchigalpa, the capital of Honduras, so we had to retrace ur steps for 2 hours to La Entrada and from there take the 'direct' bus to Tegu.

At this point we just wanted to cross the country as fast as possible so we could get to Nicaragua. Well, here direct buses are everything but direct, and we had to go all the way to the north of the country for 4 hours and then all the way south again to reach the capital. When we arrived we quickly got a connection to Danli, a border town with Nicaragua and we spent the night in the Hotel Las Vegas there. Early again the next morning we set off for Nicaragua, taking a small bus to the border, then a superbus (with broken aircon, of course) to Managua and finally arriving in Granada, our destination, at 2 pm.

Santiago Day 2

We had very ambitious plans for this day too, and setting our alarms for 5:30 am we planned to wake up early and scale the town's 3000 meter volcano. Well, our eyes didn't want to cooperate and it was 7:30 by the time we made our way to the volcano. In reality we only walked up 1,300 meters or so (well, not really only), becuse the town was already at 1,400 and then we took a tuc-tuc to the beginning of the park which was at 1,700 m. You're gonna have to turn your head cuz this computer wont cooperate with me to rotate the photo. Anyways, above is the volcano that we climbed.

We procured our very talkative guide (more for security against the amply-touted ladrones than for guide's sake) and begain our ascent of the mountain. Well, lets just say that we died a lot more than we did on the bikes the previous day. We walked through Maize fields and coffee plantations once again, and went on until it became forest, and then tropical jungle towards the top. We made it up to the top of this inactive volcano in 2hrs and 40 minutes, completely exhausted.

The view was more than worth it. We could see almost vertically down to the lake, with the little boats making their crossing and the manicured farmland 2000 meters below. We layed on the warm rocks for a while, taking in more of the view, and then it was back down the mountain. The descet was a piece of cake and we were sitting, famished, in a restaurant an hour and a half later. One massive pizza, 2 cokes a gatorade and a bottle of water later we were already feeling better and we decided to end the day by resting our legs in the newly opened swimming pool down by the lake.

Santiago and San Pedro de Atitlan

The next morning we got up late for us (9am) and had the slowest breakfast in our lives (but soo good) on top of a travel agency. Two spoons in the sugar bowl and twice the wrong table we finally received our very complete breakfast of pancakes, eggs with bacon, fruit salad, and toast (all on the same plate!).

We ate happily and listened to some guy trying to sell tabloids out of a tuc-tuc and fantiscised about buying our own while sipping our watery coffee. Its weird that some of the best coffee in the world comes from this lake region, and all they serve here is this watery concoction that tastes more like weak tea than coffee.


We then took the 11:30 boat to Santiago de Atitlan, and after a glorious 30 mintues of gliding accross the lake we reached our destination. There, as soon as we stepped off the boat we were approached by a 65 year old man which was blind in one eye, offering us everything from a hotel room to some weed. Well, we were interested in a tour to the Mirador up the mountain, and a visit to the Shamuna (A wooden figure smoking a cigar, which apparently is good luck).

We left our backpacks at this 'Guide''s house and started our ascent to the Mirador. We passed through the whole village, then next to the dirt street rural houses and straight through maize fields and coffee plantations. He very eagerly pointed out the spot where a huge landslide occured last year, which took most of the houses in its path with it, including a plot of our guide's land. We passed hunched over indiginous people, with what looked like a forest on their backs, as well as wide eyed children on the side of the road.


Luckily a pickup offered us a ride(and we eagerly accepted), and so we were sped up to the mirador just when a sea of clouds was rolling in from behind the mountain. We were able to catch glimpses of the view of the lake and volcano below, between the billowing clounds sweeping passed us.

On our way back to town we passed corrugated tin houses, where everyone was sitting, drying corn or weaving their colorful clothing. The Shamuna was more than a bit tacky, with a very electronic 'Jingle Bells' playing in the background and fruit hung from the ceiling. This guy goes to a different family every year, with visitors usually donating cigarettes or some rum to the statue in return for good fortune.



Starving, we socffed down a lunch of fried chicken and limonada and then took the last boat to our resting place, San Pedro de Atitlan. There we passed the opening day of the local swimming pool (with live blues band and all) on the way to another San Francisco hotel, which was half as expensive as the first (2.5 USD a night) and twice as nice, with a big colorful room, a kitchen, garden terrace, and even warm water (oh, the luxury!). And did I mention amazing views of the lake? We never want to leave.

The Decision

We have decided to buy a Tuc-Tuc. A Tuc-Tuc, for those who dont know is a Bajaj creation of 3 wheels which is basically a morph between a motorbike and a rickshaw, with a place for 2 passangers in the back.

We know our decision is purely fictional, but that hasnt stopped us from dreamin about them all night long and comparing the pros and cons of storage compartments and the strenght of its wheels. We've decided to get one in Ecuador and use it until Brazil or its death, whichever comes first. We'll paint it cool colors rattle along South America's highways at the mindblowing speed of 40kph- with the wind blowing in our hair.

Lago De Atitlan

Believe it or not, we are now used to getting up before the sun does, and today was no execption, with our alarms set for 5:45 am to catch the 7am bus to the lake. Who says travelling is easy?

The whole western (and central) part of Guatemala is mountanous, meaning that it takes forever to get from one place to another, but also that you get spectacular views out of your old rickety window. And so we chugged along up and down the mountaintops until we reached Panajachel, the most touristy town on the lago the Atitlan.



The lake is AMAZING it actually reminds us a lot of Lac Leman in Suisse, except that this lake is surrounded by 3 majestic volcanos of more than 3000 meters each, and dotted with little pueblos all around. We walked around the waterfront a bit and ate the cheapest meal of our trip so far (2 USD for some beef plate and a drink) in a tiny street stall with a great scenic view.

We found ourselves the cheapest room of our trip so far (4.5 USD per person) at the hotel San Francisco and then set out to fulfull our ambitions of renting bikes for the week and biking all around the lake (with our 15kg backpacks).

Well, after receiving some information of the negative kind we decided to change our plans a bit, since theres no road circling the lake. So we decided to bike to a few villages today, then tomorrow take the boat to the opposite side of the lake and bike around a few villages there, and then repeat the day after.



We rented our bikes for the week and we were on our way. We decided to take it easy today and bike to the 2 villages preceding Pana, which were Santa Caterina and San Antonio. Well, being poor backpackers we rented the cheapest bikes available, which, of course means bikes without working gears, twisted pedals and seats made of volcanic rock. It turns out that the coastal roads were only classified as such because you could see the water if you looked down 1oo meters or so. So the 45 mintue bike to Sta Caterina consisted of going up and down more than expeced, which in the end we succeded in doing, dying many times in the process.

We then cooled off with a beer on the Sta. Catarina pier, watching the fishermen mend one of their boats. Its amazing how few tourists there are just one town away, and we really got to see the local way of life. This whole region is inhabited mostly by the indigenous people, or ex-mayas, still dressing in their colorful blue and purble clothing and speaking an intelligible dialect.



We then biked halfway to San Antonio where we died a few more times and decided it was best to return home before dark. Well, we had time to think about our bike mission while we were frantically pedaling to scale the hills back to Pana. When we reached Pana we came to the conclusion that these 3 hours of biking were enough for our week and we quickly returned the bikes and got our money back (blaming it on the faultiness of our bikes, of course, instead of our legs).

A roadside taco dinner (1 USD) and a disguisting black russian at the Pana Rock bar sent us straight to sleep in our windowless room, which I'm sure had meters of mold hidden behind the bright yellow wall paint.

Antigua, Guatemala

After taking a quick plunge into the Lago de Peten-Iza at Flores we decided to take the nightbus to Guatemala city, and then catch a connection to Antigua, the old colonial capital of all of Central America.

Well, the night bus turned out to not be such a great idea, cuz neither me nor charles slept more than 20 minutes out of the 7 hour trip. And this was on the superluxury top-of-the-line buses. Most of those 7 hours was spent trying to filter out the dying screams and marching music of the movie ¨Conan the Barbarian¨, which they were so kind as to put at full volume, and the other half was spent (unsuccesfully) trying to find a position to sleep in. In the end, (and about 20 min before we arrived) I resorted to hanging my head down in front of me and hoping that the bumps wouldnt dislocate it from my shoulders.

Changing buses in the not-as-grimey-as-advertised capital of Guatemala City was a breeze and soon we were on our favorite (and so overcrowded that people were hanging off the outside of the door) chicken bus to Antigua.

We reached Antigua by 8am, hungry and dead-tired. We quickly found a guesthouse, had breakfast in a panaderia on the road and went straight to sleep till noon. And so the 2nd best siesta of my life (after Tulum, that is) was over all too soon, and at noon we got around to seeing the sights of this cobble-stoned little town.

Antugua used to be the capital of all of Central America for some time until a massive earthquake hit in 1773 which pretty much descimated most of the city. They took this opportunity to move the new capital to Guatemala City, and Antigua is now completely rebuilt, except for the few very visible church carcasses littered around town.

The great thing about this town is that it has the massive Volcan de Antigua looming over every street of the town, making almost every street extremely picturesque. We spent most of the afternoon walking around and admiring the scenery, as well as visiting some ruins of the many local churches.

We wanted to go to a promontory on a hill to see the sunset but everybody keeps warning us about ladrones here and ladrones there. Well, our whole trip through Guatemala passed without incident and the closest we got to the ladrones were the ubiquitous warnings.

Tikal and Flores

I'm not at my most lucid right now cuz I've been running around in the Guatemalan jungle since 3 am today... but I'll try to recount my adventures anyways.


We took the bus from Dangriga to Belmopan to Benque where we got off to cross the Belizean border with a taxi and then mounted another bus to Santa Elena where a minivan finally took us to our destination of Flores.

In Flores we decided to sign up for the surise tour of Tikal, the biggest Mayan Archeological site. So that evening we took it easy, eating dinner on the lake in the rain and then going straight to sleep.

This morning we reluctantly woke up at 2:45 am and made our way downstairs where the minivan took us to the site of Tikal. By 5 am we were hurrily hiking our way through the rainforest to the summit of Temple IV, the highest temple in Tikal, where we were to sit and watch the sunrise.

Well, because of the low-lying fog we didn't get to see any sunrise, but we did get to see the tops of the temples slowly appear through the morning mist. We also got a 5 hour tour of the (huge) site and were able to see monkeys, toucans, and some bushy tailed animals whose name I've forgotten.



Now, we're back in the little tourist island of Flores where we're awaiting our 10pm nightbus to Guatemala City... its been a tiring day, but well worth it.

Tobacco Caye and Dangriga

The next day we took the chicken bus down to Dangriga, a seaside garifuna town, and then from there the boat to Tobacco Caye, a miniscule little caye on an atoll about 30 minutes from the mainland.

We arrived on this little palm-fringed island- which our guidebook said had a great beach and amazing snorkelling- only to find a plot of sand completely coverd by crumbling little guesthouses. The island was about 30 meters around, or maybe 10 by 10 meters big... and there was no beach left cuz it was all filled up with these hotels. So we found the cheapest one (without running, water, electriciy, or a fan), though after a while, luckily, we got all 3.

The thing about this island was that not only was it overcrowded with these ugly wooden buildings, but there was trash everywhere... we often saw locals finish a bag of chips, or a coke, and just throw it into the sea afterwards. The very sea that brings paying tourists to their island and allows them to eat that bag of chips. Its not only here that this happens, but everywhere in central america, it seems. I mean, how can these people not get that if they keep doing that pretty soon there'll be no tourists left and they'll be, well, screwed.

A fried chicken dinner and a few hours of laying on the peer to stare up at the stars, and down and the manta rays and glow fish got us tired enough to sleep. The next morning we set off, perpared to justify our lavish spending (30 USD just to get to the island and back) by seeing some mindblowing coral. Well, with my extrasmall mask I had to fiddle with it about every 30 seconds, but I was able to see some pretty nice coral (though nothing compared to coral gardens in the Philippines). I then borrowed Charles' mask which he rented, and snorkeled some more to see two HUGE rays, one even bigger than me, suavely making their way accross the ocean floor.

(Actually my photos don't do it justice, because just behind the lense was the overcrowded island and just below the inhabitant´s trash)

We quickly vacated this caye and made our way back to Dangriga, where we heard there was a big soccer match going on- Belize vs Honduras, with the winner progressing to the next stage of the CONCAF cup. So, excitedly, we bought tickets and took our places in the stadium. Well, to use the word 'stadium' is a bit of a stretch. I think 'grass field' would do it justice. It was basically a field, with a fence around it, and four steps of rudimentary bleachers erected on one side... which could hold about 1oo people. And this was a major interational match. But then again, this was Belize.

It was a great game to watch, with much screaming and jumping around from my neighbors, Belize won 2-1. But, since Honduras had won 2-1 as well at home, it went down to penalties, which, unfortunately, Belize lost by 2. So, the public went home slightly disgruntled, many too high or drunk to be really dissapointed.

And we retreated to our guest house, waking up the next morning at 8 am to make our way into Guatemala.

Belize.

Belize should not be part of Central America. Belize is- in culture, people, and landscape- the carribean.

At first we had planned to skip Belize entirely and just head through to Guatemala... but the more we read about this tiny country the more it interestd us. It used to be part of Guatemala, who gave it to the British in exchange for a road (which still hasnt been built). The British then kept it as a colony until it became independent in only 1984. So its about as old as I am. Their main language is English, and all their buildings are of carribean style made out of wooden planks with big porches. The people are mixed, inland are the fairer mayans while on most of the coast everyone is black, speaking with almost jamaican accents.

We spent the night in the ex-capital and biggest city of Belize City. It was tiny (50,000 people), dingy, and falling apart. I loved it... it was so interesting to see a stereotypical backwater town, and so strange that it was the biggest city in the country. We arrived at 9pm and everything was closed, we woke up the next moning, and everything was closed. The few stores that were open had huge metal bars everywhere. All the houses were either falling apart or deserted. Even the larger ones, in the 'fancy' part of the city were empty and peeling. It was like this city had been forgotten 20 years ago... and everybody living here is too busy smoking weed or drinking to care.

Isla Mujeres

Isla Mujeres!

As if we hadn't had enough beach in the past few days we decided to take a 2 day trip to Isla Mujeres, the island of women. Sadly there were not as many women as the name would suggest, and the only people frollocking half-naked on the beach were europeans in speedos. yah.

But, apart from that the island is absolutely, yep, you guessed it, amazing. Ok, so I've been using this word a lot lately, but this will probably be the last time I'll be able to do so cuz I dont think we're gonna find beaches as good as these on the rest of our trip. So, amazing it was. Its a tiny little island (and I mean tiny... its about 50 meters thick in the largest point), and its small streets are dotted with little hotels and restaurants. But the best part is the water... its extremely shallow, and you can still stand 100 meters or so out to sea, and the colors are SO blue and SO amazing... ok, I'll stop.

So it was about a 20 mintue ferry ride from cancun. We very inteligently got on the bus to go to the ferry terminal witout knowing where the terminal was... (I blame it on brain damage), so we went back and forth a few times before finally arriving (and of course, doing the customary 30 minutes of walking under the scorching midday sun).

On the island itself we set up camp, tied our hammocks on to our desired palm trees and ate our homemade tuna sandwiches (Mmm). We were prepared for the mosquitoes that night, spreading ourselves with enough mosquito spray to kill a horse (if horses were mosquitoes...) and lighting those little mosquito coils and everything. It only helped marginally and we still died, repeatedly, from bites. But I guess its just the sacrifice we'll have to make if we want to camp...

So the next day we went snorkelling off the south of the island where the water was even more blue and amazing (blah blah...) and there we saw big rays, barracuda, and an assortment of colorful fish. I had bought a mask the day before 2 sizes too small... so now my nose is bruised and probably falling off as I type this.

Tulum

Our trip to Tulum was pretty much the complete opposite of our luxurious rest in cancun, but no less amazing. Tulum is famous for 2 things, its beach, and its beachside mayan ruins, the only ones built this close to the coast. Our 3 hour bus ride ended in the sleepy little backpacker town of Tulum, from where we had to go a bit further to reach Tulum beach, right next to the ruins. Well, we slightly miscalculated the distance to this beach and we ended up walking for 1.5 hours under the scorching midday sun. Not nice.

We arrived on the beach, not really knowing what to expect nor where to stay... and right next to us were some rickety beachside cabañas, so we went inside and asked about availability. This is where we met a mayan hammock-maker who was all too happy to explain to us the different types and materials of hammocks... well, we got swept up in it and decided then and there to purchase ourselves some hammocks made from Cisal (cactus fiber, apparently the lightest and most comfortable material for hammocks.


So there we were with our hammocks in hand, we set up under a shady tree right on the beach and took an inaugural siesta. The beach was easily one of the most beautiful ones I've ever seen... the sea was even more blue than in Cancun (if that's possible) and the beach was wide and practically deserted. We lazed around there for the remainder of the afternoon, spending the evening dancing and hanging around the beachside bar, and the night laying in a beached boat staring up at the millions of stars in complete solitude.


Sleeping on a hammock on the beach is on my list of things I must do before I die... and so with great enthusiasm we settled down for the night... well, its not as great as it seems, lets just say that out of 9 hours I sat in my hammock I didnt get more than 4 or 5 hours of shut-eye. Well, that and about 10,000 mosquito bites (no, I'm not exaggerating, the morning after the whole surface of my back had swelled up by 2 cm thanks to those little shits). Who says tourists dont contribute to nature?



But it was completely worth it... as the next morning we sat next to the shore and watched the sunrise without another soul on the beach. The fishermen came shortly and set off in their boats, while we walked off to explore the ruins before the hoards of tourists were to arrive. They were great as well, not as big or majestic as the other ones I'd seen but the backdrop of the turquoise carribean sea was more than stunning enough.

Back at camp Itook the best siesta I have ever taken, waking up at 1 pm to jump into the cool waters and lay back on the white beach... then, too soon, it was time to go back to cancun, so we reluctantly packed our stuff and set off to the bus station (taking a taxi instead).

Cancun

Cancun is... amazing. Yes, its over-touristy, over-built, and its practically part of the US; but I dont care... why don't I care? Just look at the photo above...

I arrived here on aug 3, straight from the colorful colonial town of Campeche and spent the first night in the HOSTEL FROM HELL. Not to be confused with the HOSTEL THAT MADE US SELL OUR SOULS in Barcelona. In short, there was blaring music all night long from the very intelligently placed rooftop bar of our hostel. There was also no fan in my room, and my room only. BECASUE there was no fan I had to sleep with the window open, and the smart people from the hostel decided to shine a bright spotlight (I'm not kidding) onto the hostel wall, making most of my room brighter than the surface of the sun. I'm not a picky sleeper, but these guys are really trying too hard to make you turn homicidal.

So the next night I changed hostels and spent the day using the Riu Resort's beach and pool... I didn't have one of the Hotel's white armbands so I had to constantly cover my wrists and evade security, but it was worth it.

The next day I met up with Charles and his sister and moved my stuff to the apartment of two of his friends, Nidya and Daniela, who were kind enough to let us stay with them. The next few days were pure bliss... we spent them at a 5 star all-inclusive beach resort, courtesy of the Oasis Playa Cancun, (I dont know if they would have been so courteous had they known we snuck in, but I'd like to think so...). So thanks to a couple of old resort bracelets and some tactfully placed superglue we were able to eat, drink, and swim like kings.

The water is a thousand different shades of blue, and the sand is so white and so fine (and also so imported from further offshore since the hurricane 2 years ago left the beach, well, beachless.). So we lazily alternated between the 3 infinity pools of the hotel and the shaded beachfront, playing some volleyball, and waterpolo (with WATERmelons, of course) inbetween. Our margaritas were never far from reach and always half full, it seemed. Yea, life is good. About every half hour it dawned on us that we were in Cancun spending this amazing time for free, and a big grin crossed our faces.

Not too shabby a start for our backpacking adventures, I'd say. So what if it's all downhill from here...I happen to like descending hills.