This 2000 km bus ride took us through the heart of it, leaving the mountains and lakes behind for flat shrublands that extend as far as the eye can see. The bus gods must be smiling on us because we got the best seats in the world, at the top front, with a great 180º view of the road stretching out before us.
The views went from this:
to 2000 km of this:
31 hours and 20 empanadas later we got off the bus at El Calafate, a small über touristy town near the impressive Moreno Glarier. This glacier is one of the only few advancing ones on earth, with its 60 meter high glacial wall moving 2 meters forward every day and regularly breaking off huge chunks of ice into the surrounding lake waters. We found a campsite where we got barked at all night by a neighbours dog, and waking up in the rain the next morning we weren't too enthusiastic about visiting this Glacier.
We decided to rent a car anyways, and as soon as we were on our way the sun came out and all was good again. We stared at the craggy glacier for 5 hours, being the last to leave after sunset and seeing various imposing blocks of ice crashing into the water, making huge waves. (Photos will be up soon...)
We then decided to do some wild camping in the park, and finding a hidden site we spent the night in below-freezing temperatures and died. But it was worth it, cuz the next morning we jumped into the car and drove back to the glacier for breakfast and some more oohing and aahing.
Finally returning the car that aftenoon, we decided to try our luck with hitchiking into Chile. We got lots of smiles and waves, but apparently everyone that drives in this town just goes round in circles all day. The bus arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile, that night and we found ourselves a cozy hostel (and showers!) to spend the night and prepare for our upcoming 5 day hike in Torres del Paine national park.
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